Sunday, March 15, 2009

Khao Lak (Jen)



Ah, I am sooo relaxed. I think it has finally hit me that I do not need to see everything, do everything, or think about going back to work for another 10 months or so. (sorry for rubbing that in . . .) I’ve finally realized that it is ok to spend an entire day just reading and lazing about. That is what Khao Lak has done for both Perry and I.

We arrived with a plan to stay one or two days. Just long enough to organize a liveaboard to Similan Islands so that I could do a bit of diving prior to heading back to Bangkok and then up north. We had both firmly declared that we were beached out and it was time to move on. But, I felt I would regret it if I didn’t do any diving here. (I’ve been told that Similan Islands is some of the best diving in the world.)

Things changed. First we checked into our super cute, comfortable, and cheap bungalow. Then we rented a scooter and realized that there are a multitude of near deserted beaches within 10 minutes of here. Then we realized that there is a fantastic noodle soup stand right across the street from our bungalow. Then we met some of the nice and super relaxed locals in this area. Needless to say, we have been here for almost a week now. =)

We’ve spent our days on the beach playing in the waves, driving around checking out waterfalls, exploring back roads, and testing out local “restaurants” with super cheap and tasty (yet very spicy) food. We went to the market yesterday to check out all that was on offer. A great market with tons to buy, and of course tons to eat. As usual, Perry indulged in the meats, and I in the sweet Thai deserts. Sticky rice with banana cooked in banana leaf, young coconut juice . . . sooo good! I swear I will gain 300 lbs before we leave Thailand. I’m almost hoping that the food in Laos and Cambodia won’t be as good. I know I will be hopeless in Vietnam . . .

I have finally gotten around to organizing the diving. We leave tomorrow for a 4 day excursion to Similan Islands. I’m a little nervous about diving again after so long, but the company has offered me a thorough “refresher course” and a near dedicated instructor, so that has calmed my fears a bit. We’ll update again upon our return to Khao Lak.

Love to you all. As always check out photo gallery for more of our adventures. http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Krabi (Perry)


After leaving Khao Sok, which I also thought was fantastic by the way, we decided to go a bit more south and head to Krabi. Krabi town was the first place that Jen and I had not booked a place in advance and at first, it appeared as if our plan would backfire. Based on the Lonely Planet “Bible”, the Chan Cha Lay was the place to be...clean and cheap bungalows . . . but alas the place was booked. So, we decided to walk the streets and after about 5 minutes (did I mention that I overpacked and my bag was killing me after 5 minutes) we settled on the Cha Guest House. In this situation, first impressions were deceiving as the place turned out to be quite a find. The same can be said for Krabi town.

In our plans, Krabi town was only going be a jumping ground to Railay Beach which we’d heard so many good things about. So, after the first night, we repacked and headed to the pier to take a taxi boat to Railay. Upon arrival at East Railay, we set out on finding accommodation. The first place we checked out was the Ya Ya, which was decent but did not warrant double in price of Cha Guest House in Krabi town. We still had hope and continued our search, but soon realized that the Ya Ya was the standard. Long story short, after about 2 hours, we headed back on the boat and checked back into Cha. Did we jump the gun? Were we to quick to judge Railay Beach? Just to give perspective, a very nice girl named Nicole that we met on the ride in joined us on the ride back.

(For those who love Railay, we later learned from our climbing guide that electricity had recently been run under the water to provide power to the many large and expensive resorts on West Railay. East Railay, which apparently was always not really suitable for swimming due to mangrove trees, etc. is now not suitable for swimming due to inadequate clean up from this project and many work trucks leaking oil into the water.)

Over the next couple of days, Jen and I began to really like Krabi town. The town had a charm to it and our accommodation turned out to be pretty good. Also, within a 5 minute walk was a night market which served amazing and cheap food. Did someone say cheap food!! We definitely ate well in Krabi town. The Thai desserts and fresh Chinese donuts with Thai tea were Jen's favorite. For me, it was the bone marrow spicy soup.

In addition, we decided to sign up for a 3 day mountain climbing course which would cover everything from top rope climbing to lead climbing. I can’t speak for Jen but I was pretty excited. While I’ve done some indoor, climbing was totally new to Jen and also, I’ve always wanted to learn to lead climb. In addition, the climbing course took place at Railay and Phra Nang beaches, which allowed us to enjoy the beautiful beaches around that area during the day, without having to stay in dirty East Railay, or pay top dollar to stay in West Railay either.

Over the course of the next 4 days (thankfully they gave us a day off in between the 2nd and third day so that we could regain feeling in our fingers), Jen and I scaled some pretty amazing routes and learned a pretty cool new hobby, thanks mostly to our great guide named Solay. If ever there was a sport that needed a calm and composed coach, this was it. Solay was both and more. Eventually, Jen and I both learned to lead climb with the help of a top rope for extra security, but on the third day, I completed three lead climbs all on my own!!! To say the least, I was stoked when they were done, but the way up was a combination of nerves and sweat...a lot of sweat.

In total, we spent about a week in Krabi and I definitely think that this and Khao Sok have been my favorite places so far. We’re now on our way to Khao Lak and I can’t wait to see what happens next.

For more photos, go to http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Friday, March 6, 2009

Khao Sok National Park (Jen)



As you can probably tell if you have checked our photo gallery lately, Khao Sok was my favorite place we have visited so far. We took so many photos! It might be because this is the first “new” place for me, but I think it is more because it is an absolutely gorgeous place. We did some fantastic and challenging hikes. The “waterfalls” at the end of the trails cannot really rival those we are used to at home, but the trails themselves were gorgeous.

We stayed at a very quaint guesthouse called “Our Jungle House”, run by a quirky German Klaus and his Thai wife Pawn. We truly were in the Jungle. At night you can hear so many different animal sounds and see so many stars. On the hikes you can see so many different types of vegetation. We also saw a lot of wildlife, including monkeys, gibbons, couple of snakes, lizards, frogs, wild pig, hornbill, and of course bats. We tired to take photos, but aren’t so proficient with our camera yet . . .

We took a two day trip to Cheow Lan Lake to hike through Namtaloo Cave (also part of the park, but a bit far off). It was a little unnerving in there, walking through water up to your chest with tons of bats hanging overhead. But, it was a pretty cool experience. We stayed in floating raft houses which were great because you can just jump out your front door into the nice clean water of the lake. They weren’t great though, because I’m pretty sure that they have not been cleaned for a long, long time, or perhaps ever. We stayed with some cool people there as well, mostly German and Dutch. It was a small group of 9 which was a good size. I was happy with safety in numbers in that cave! I was excited though, to let Devan know that his Auntie Jen actually went to the “bat cave” after all. I have a feeling he wouldn’t like it as much as he thinks he would . . . ;-)

If felt great to get some exercise after so many days laying on the beach, and the nights were quite cool which made for good sleeps too. Lots of mosquitoes, but you can’t have it all. =)

For more photos go to http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Koh Samui (Perry)


As I'm writing this Jen and I are actually in Khao Sok National Park, but I feel that I need to touch upon our time in Koh Samui. Of the 2 previous islands we visited, Samui was the biggest and by far the most developed. As such, Jen and I decided that after roughing it Thailand style, we needed some luxury. Hello Anong Guest House.

Arriving by ferry, we were whisked away by taxi to the main beach area of Samui, Haad Cheweng. To get an idea of Cheweng, all you need to know is that there’s a Starbucks, MacDonald’s and Burger King all on the same street. After walking the streets, we settled on Anong Guest House, a decent place tucked in off the main drag. For 800 baht a night, we had air conditioning, hot water, and a toilet that flushed. We had found paradise. Or so we thought.

After a couple of nights in Samui, passing the time checking out the street markets and visiting some of the bars, we figured we were done with the island. And honestly this had nothing to do with both Jen and I getting destroyed in Connect 4 by a super friendly Thai “bar girl”. Seriously, this girl beat us 20 times in a row. No, we were done with the chaos of it all. Plus, we had quickly realized that our “luxury” guesthouse was a little too near the main nightclub “Green Mango” and as a result we weren’t actually getting much rest.

Anyways, on the third and what we thought last day, we were walking the streets looking for a place to book our boat off the island and we were stopped by a Thai guy named Cola. He was obviously selling something but he was pleasant enough and we had nowhere to be so we decided to humor him and play the scratch cards he had thrust into our hands. After checking Jen’s he became very excited. He pleaded with us to listen to some sort of “presentation” for one hour. If we did, he would receive $100 USD from his boss. He also assured us that Jen had won one of four prizes on the back of the card, one of which was a week in a 5 star resort.

Well, we were pretty skeptical, but we agreed, mostly due to Cola’s full-on excitement. Long story short, turns out we actually DID win something, and so spent the following 5 nights at Samui Cliff View Resort. A huge step up from the Anong guesthouse. This place was NICE and obviously a bit more expensive than what was in our initial budget. We both agreed it was time to enjoy a proper honeymoon and decided to stay in Koh Samui a few more days.

An added bonus to the place was that it was right in between two beaches (Lamai and Chewang) so the only economic way to get around was by scooter. That’s right, I finally realized my European dream of driving a scooter. Never mind that it was an automatic and that I nearly drove into on-coming traffic when I first fired it up, it was still a scooter. So for the next few days, Jen and I drove our “hog” around and tore up the island roads, enjoyed the gorgeous pool and views at Samui Cliff View, and did not eat in the hotel’s overpriced restaurant. (Well, ok, we did once . . . )

For photos, as always, visit http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Island Fever (Jen)


Ah, we are finally settling in a very relaxed existence.  Since Bangkok, we spent three (or four?) nights at Tanote Bay on Koh Tao.  Now we have been at Hat Yuan on Koh Pang Ngan since Valentine's.  Tanote Bay was VERY relaxed.  Our favorite was the bar/restaurant next to our guesthouse which offered all day wifi for 100 Baht.  (Here on Koh Pang Ngan it is 120 for an hour . . . .  )

We did a couple hikes - from Tanote Bay to Sai Ree beach on Koh Tao, and today from Haad Yuan to Haad Rin on Koh Pang Ngan.  Both times we got lost and ended up with a much longer hike than intended . . . .  Lots of uphill . . . . definitely better than bikini bootcamp.  

We took a boat ride/snorkeling tour around Koh Tao, which was fantastic.  Perry is no longer nervous about swimming at all.  Actually both beaches have been perfectly calm bays for swimming.  Haad Yuan is definitely the more picturesque of the two though.  Gorgeous clear turquoise water.

We got a small taste of Koh Pang Ngan party atmosphere even here on Haad Yuan.  There was a wedding on our beach the other night, and afterward a party at one of the bars.  It was definitely a good time.  And just enough for us.  We are definitely not up for the full moon party this go around.  

Now we are thinking about taking off tomorrow.  Perhaps to Khao Sok National Park for a beach break.  And a break from our mosquito infested bungalow (with twin beds . . . ) here at the "Barcelona" in Koh Pang Ngan.  Cheap, but difficult to take a shower because the light in the bathroom works only sometimes, and there are no screens.  I.e. lots of mosquitos biting your bum in there . . . .  ;-)

As always, for more photos visit http://gallery.me.com/adamschen


Wednesday, February 11, 2009

One week in Bangkok (Perry)



Well it's been about a week in Bangkok and Jen and I have decided it's time to move to a more relaxing environment.  I think at this point, we both still feel like this is a holiday because in the last 5 days, we jammed in quite a bit of stuff.

Upon arrival we were picked up by a couple of Jen's host sisters, Lek and Jin, and dropped off a our hotel, Rambuttri Village, which is about a block from Khao San Road  For about 800 Baht (around $27) per night, you get a very basic room but thankfully with air conditioning.  I know I'll eventually get used to the heat but I was basically a puddle the first few hours.  That evening we enjoyed a great dinner at a restaurant recently opened up by another one of Jen's host sisters, Thip.  The restaurant was very modern looking, which was not at all what I was expecting, and the food was amazing.  Best way to describe it would be Thai-Chinese fusion.  The best part was that I finally got to meet Jen's host family and they are definitely some of the nicest people I've ever met.

For the next few days, we went about seeing the sights.  We saw some amazing temples and Buddha statues and experienced some pretty interesting things.  Now I would never consider Jen and I the gullible type, but as I'm writing this, I can honestly say that we fell for a couple of tourist scams.  Now we're not talking thousands or even hundreds of dollars, but still, it's the principle.

The first scam started with us getting a tuk-tuk (three wheeled taxi).  The driver was very nice and suggested a few of the temples to see.  Starting with the Standing Buddha and the Lucky Buddha.  The day was off to a good start.  The next temple (the Grand Palace) that we wanted to see he said was closed, so he took us to an alternate.  Once there though, we were told this temple was closed as well until after lunch.  And this is where we think the "gem scam" started to take shape.  As we were led to a waiting area in the courtyard, we ended up sitting beside a "teacher" at the temple.  Small chit chat ensued and he was a very pleasant man.  Then he  mentioned how Thailand is very famous for their sapphires and rubies and that we were in luck because once a week, every year, a local mine sells some pieces of jewelery retail and that today was the very last day.  To further add to our luck, it was 12:15 and the store was open just until 1pm.   

Of course at this point, both Jen and my bullshit radars were screaming.  The "teacher" continued to talk about these jewelery pieces and how he would buy every year at this time, ship the pieces to the US, and double his money.  Again, radars screaming but the man was pleasant enough so we were still engaged in the conversation.  then the clincher.  All of a sudden this German tourist appears and eventually joins our conversation.  To our surprise, he backs up the local and says that he also has purchased jewelery at this yearly sale and made 150% profit.  Now I wouldn't say that we leapt off our seats, but we somewhat hurried back to our tuk-tuk and told the driver that we would like to go and see this store.  2 minutes later, we're in front of a very unassuming store and we are herded in by a salesperson.  Once inside we got a taste of high pressure sales, Thailand style.  VEry nice man, but never more than two feet from us.  Suffice it to say, we finally came to our senses and got out of there without spending a Baht.  

We finally clued in on the scam when we asked out driver to take us for some food and he suggested that we go to another jewelery store.  He said something like we just go look for 5 minutes so he could get a gasoline credit.  A bit confused but mostly just hot and tired at this point, we agree and off we go.  Upon arrival, again we are ushered in and to our surprise, we hear the exact same story.  This store only sells to the public for a week per year and today is the last day.  Booyah.  Clarity at last.  You cannot believe how relieved we are that we didn't buy anything in the end.  

The next day we awoke and decided no more tuk-tuks or taxis, but instead we would walk.  OUr attempt at the Grand Palace was thwarted yesterday but we figured if we set out by foot, nothing would stop us.  The walk started out uneventful enough but as we were not more than 20 minutes away, we were stopped by a young local.  For those of you who have never been to Thailand, the people here are very ice and very proud of their country so it's not rare to be stopped by locals who are more than willing to tell you what you should see.

I'm pretty sure it was me who first stopped, since for the first few days, I've probably heard 10 or more people talk about how I should get a suit made.  Anyways, this young man named Jay says he is a university student on break and asks us where we are going.  We say the Grand Palace.  To our surprise, he says that the Palace is closed in the morning because of a national holiday.  Our heads are buzzing.  Was the tuk-tuk driver from the previous day telling us the truth?  Regardless, he continues on by saying that we should take a canal ride to see the city and that the canal will drop us off at the end at a temple.  He says that for 1800 Baht for the two of us, we'll get an amazing ride that he himself and his girlfriend took just the day before.  But only with we go to the "Thai pier" because the tourist pier will charge us double.  Before we could say yes, he's hailing us a tuk-tuk and we're off.

Now the boat ride was pretty cool and we eventually did make it to the Grand Palace.  As a bonus, we also saw another cool temple called Wat Arun.  So how does this sound like a scam?  Well, when we finally got there we saw that the Grand Palace is open every day and as we left, we were offered the same boat ride for 1,000 Baht.  And to boot, instead of seeing the palace in the early morning, we were there at the height of the day's heat.

Anyways, nothing too major, but no one likes to get scammed.  The biggest questions for us though are whether or not the "teacher" we met was really a teacher and whether Jay was really trying to scam us.  I know we ended up paying too much for the boat ride, but did he really send us on our way knowing this?  Also, where did they find the German?

p.s. to see more pics, go to http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Thursday, February 5, 2009

We made it! (Jen)


Hi everybody!  We have made it safely to Bangkok.  It is HOT, but we are adjusting.  Very happy we paid extra for the pool and the air-con at first.  We will enjoy this luxury while it lasts . . . 

We met with my host family.  It was so great to see them!  We had dinner the night we arrived . . .  yikes we were tired but it also cured our jet lag.  We are on Thai time now.  =)

Running out of internet time so will write more later on.  But, wanted to send on a link to our photo gallery also.  It is 

http://gallery.me.com/adamschen

Preview is pic of Perry - clearly in Thailand now!  Check out the flag and the tuk-tuks . . . . . .

Love, Jen & Perry